There's one trend we have to mention because it's one of the most conspicuous movements this spring. Bows! From head to toe on hats, in hair, at the neck, shoulders, bust, sleeves, waist, and feet, bows have covered spring runways like pollen on honeybees. Light and flouncy bows, both oversized and ribbon, add youthful femininity without giving up sophistication. The perfect finishing touch to a spring halter or tucked in blouse with high-waisted jeans, pencil skirt, or shorts, wrap your arms around the bow trend for spring. We certainly did.

Five heads are better than one. Loden Dager isn't the work of a designer, it's a creative collective that includes Matthew Sandager, Melissa Vail, and Alexander Galan, with Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow as the primary designers. Helden and Marlow envisioned the idea of Loden Dager while working at Marc by Marc Jacobs. With so many artists on board steering a single collection, skimping on the vision isn't an option. Loden Dager's concept richness is unique. While other designers loosely affix patchwork stories to their collections just to have something, Loden Dager took off on a road trip through the South, searching for images of America circa 1940. They found a small, "sleepy college town" to shoot their campaign.

The spirit of the Loden Dager Spring 2008 collection is in the field--inspired in part by Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath--channeling authenticity through the simplicity and utility of classic work wear mixed with lightly tailored jackets and basics with personal details.

We caught a glimpse of Loden Dager Menswear Collection Presentation for Fall/Winter 2008 during New York Fashion Week last month at The Hoffman Refectory on the grounds of the General Theological Seminary. Loden Dager's inspiration is Robert Peary, the American Admiral who claimed to be the first to reach the North Pole. The looks were colorful understatement, clean and era stamped, capturing the exploration and travel of the '20s with shoes tucked into worker boots and scarves hung loosely around the neck. Cotton was the fabric story in magenta, khaki, and shades of blue. Check out the pics!

The Smooth Company hits a nice sweetspot between the laid-back attitude of California chic and the refined edge of more fitted Avant Casual. We just received the spring collection and there's a lot to like. Basics with interesting details like the Serena Long Sleeve Striped Crew T-shirt with button closure cuffs. Our stylists picked out a few of their favorite The Smooth Company pieces.

Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim brought "everything we love about New York to L.A." last March by opening a boutique on La Cienega. It's been an entire year since the ribbon cutting, and it looks like all that time in California has rubbed off. For Spring 2008, there's a noticable infusion of left coast in Opening Ceremony's collection. Leon describes it as "East Coast relatives visiting West Coast relatives." It's like two versions of a Sunday outting--one more refined family brunch, the other beachcomber casual--that can easily be styled together.

(clockwise from top left: Opening Ceremony Short Sleeved Dress Shirt , Opening Ceremony Single Breasted Blazer, Opening Ceremony Jersey Cardigan , Opening Ceremony Long Shorts)

Ladies, just a few more days! Our Opening Ceremony women's collection for Spring 2008 should be arriving any minute, so keep checking back.

We're not ashamed. American Idol is Tivo royalty in our house. This season is pretty deep talent wise, without a single Sanjaya in the top 10. Although, Kristy Lee Cook's country twanged butchery of The Beatles was an epic train wreck. She's obviously Votefortheworst.com's posterchild this year. Carly Smithson and David Archuleta are our safe picks for the final two. But, David Cook was pretty good last night. We like Brooke White and Michael Johns too, especially when the Idol stylists have them wearing clothes we carry!

Check out the Threads for Thought Head of a Champ T-Shirt on Michael Johns, and the Karen Zambos Vintage Couture Silk Scallop Dress on Brooke White.

What you wear speaks volumes. Style is personal, but it's just garment deep. What's your ensemble saying besides "I'm fabulous"? When designers take aim at issues affecting the world, they can use the runways to spread awareness and mobilize people to action. Fashion at its best is provocative, and fashion activism is a natural collaboration that we don't see enough. Thankfully, the iconic designer that grew to prominence for making fashion statements political in '80s, the one that wore a "58% Don't Want Pershing" tee to Margaret Thatcher's house, is still stepping up as one of the industry's most vocal agents of change. By vocal, you don't need to hear Katharine Hamnett speak on issues, her print tees do all the talking.

Hamnett has always been antiwar, pitching peace and love. Those slogans and sentiments are as relevant as ever, but this time, they're being printed on 100% organic cotton tees. As a guest of OXFAM, Hamnett witnessed first hand the plight of African cotton farmers in 2003. She's since become one of the industry's most passionate champions of socially responsible and environmentally friendly production.

We're proud to announce that Katharine Hamnett tees for spring have just arrived and are now available for men and women! Don't forget to check out the Evolve Lookbook.

Trends are cyclical, us pack rats know that. The time in between appearances varies though. Acid wash took 20 years to come back, but distressing is back after a short vacation, a long weekend. Seems like just yesterday (it's been three years actually), everyone was pining for those jeans Kate Hudson was wearing: the True Religion Joey Destroyed. People went so ventilation crazy that fraying went zero to mainstream in less than 60 seconds. To distance themselves from the masses, the fashion savvy vacated and adopted clean, dark washes.

Of course, now that dark denim is everywhere, distressing is boomeranging back for an encore run as a cool fashion statement. If you want to be different, pick up a pair of distressed denim. Can't believe we just said that, but it's true for now. Ksubi, True Religion and Diesel are answering the distress call this spring.

(left to right: True Religion Danny Bootcut Jeans in Motor Pyscho Medium , True Religion Billy Big T Bootcut Jeans in Wasteland , Diesel Safado Slim Straight Leg Jeans in The Deep Experiment , Diesel Viker Straight Leg Jeans in The First Class DNA)

(left to right: True Religion Joey Flare Jeans in Zuma Medium , Ksubi Mac (R) Slim Straight Jeans in Soul Discharge)

Two of the most frequently asked questions our Stylists get week to week are "What is raw denim?" and "How do you take care of raw denim?"

What is raw denim?

Raw denim, a.k.a., dry denim, is simply denim that is untreated and unprocessed after dying. It hasn't been washed. You can find raw denim easily these days. Most jean companies, from A.P.C. and Acne Jeans to Ksubi and all the hard to find Japanese denim brands, offer raw denim styles. One thing first timers should know is that raw denim starts off pretty stiff and can feel abrasive against your skin. But, the reason enthusiasts endure the breaking in process is the reason you should try it, you end up with the most personalized pair of jeans you will ever own. They'll stretch to contour to your movement, applying fading and whiskering wherever your activity puts it. Instead of pre-applied distressing and simulated fading, all the character of worn raw denim is put there by you.

How do you take care of raw denim?

Easy. Wear them as much as possible and don't wash them! This latter sounds counterintuitive, and likely unrealistic for most of us, but the raw denim styles that come with care tags always suggest avoiding the wash as long as possible (at least 6 months). The longer you wait, and the more you wear them, the more ingrained your personal signature is (with stretch, whiskering and fading). If you're worried about odor, stick 'em in the freezer. If you absolutely must wash them because of dirt, dry clean them. Whatever you do, try not to machine wash before that 6 month mark, and when you do, turn 'em inside out.

Also, keep in mind some raw styles will bleed dye. To test how dramatic the bleed will be, rub your thumb down the thigh of the jeans and see how much blue ends up on your finger. If it's a lot, just avoid white shoes and expensive couches for a few weeks.

Thanks to daylight savings we've got longer days to play with, and that's the cue to start thinking tanks and tees. Everyday looks for spring and summer are built on breezy casual basics, and right now the staple of the moment is LnA. Started by two Southern California girls, Lauren Alexander and April Leight, LnA is a collection of supersoft and light throw-on-and-go boyfriend tops perfect for busy days and spontaneous nights. The paparazzi is handling LnA's PR pro bono, as every tabloid starlet has been snapped wearing LnA while grabbing morning lattes.

Ok, we were dug in for a long tug of war with Alife founder Arnaud Delecolle regarding the models we've been choosing for his brand. Arnaud dismissed our first model as not being "right" for Alife , and shook off our second, who we happen to think is a great fit.

We were just about to give up and shoot everything Alife flat before we discovered...the One.

Stumbling home after an all night bender, we found this guy sleeping in an alley, under a cardboard fortress. That's street cred you can't buy. We knew at first sight, we found a diamond in the rough. He agreed to pose for us after we promised to upgrade his shopping cart to a 4-wheeler. Ladies and gentlemen, introducing our new Alife model...

You may not have heard of S.W.O.R.D., but this family run company has been producing high quality leather in Italy for 100 years, supplying some fashion houses you have heard of including Armani, Dolce and Gabbana, and Gucci. The first thing you'll notice is the weight of the leather. Unlike most leather jackets that are bulky and make you feel like you're carrying a half-full backpack, S.W.O.R.D.'s buttery leather jackets are really light. They're also body-hugging, with a fit that's closer to a sweater than coat.

In picking our S.W.O.R.D. assortment, we had two personalities in mind. For the safe ones that want the motorcycle jacket without the risk, we picked up the can't miss Volterra Jacket. For the more adventurous ones that want a little more attitude, we chose the Modena Jacket for women, and the Como 4 Zip Pocket Jacket for men.

If there's one '80s trend we had to bet against coming back, it would have been the acid wash. And, we would've lost money. But looking at the acid wash now, with fresh eyes, it doesn't conjure the same, unfortunate hair metal associations of its predecessor. When we think of the first coming, we remember more the tragedy of the tail end, the rise of the heshers--cologne drenched, El Camino driving, mulleted losers that got the trend two years late, and hung on five years too long. But wait, there was a time when acid wash was revolutionary right? That's the time we forgot.

When acid wash first appeared, it was pretty cool. Then, after wearing out its welcome, it became repulsive. This new crop of Avant Casual acid washed jeans plays off the burnout to retrieve the original cool, plucking the outcast identity from expired trend and spinning it as daring with a defiant anti-mainstream edge. Acid washed jeans from Ksubi, Cheap Monday, and Grey Ant have us feeling good about bleaching again.

(left to right: Ksubi Van Winkle High Waisted Skinny Jeans , Grey Ant Etiquette Jeans , Grey Ant Braid Jeans , men's Cheap Monday Tight 34" Skinny Jeans , women's Cheap Monday Tight 34" Skinny Jeans )

New York, London, Milan, Paris, and perhaps throw in a Scandinavian locale into the mix. That's been the regular circuit of shows to see. It's time to add another stop to the fashion week itinerary, and bring your swimsuit and shades. We're going tropical!

Brazil is and always will be Carnival, samba, beaches and Gisele in bikinis. Carving out a fashion identity that isn't covered in sand or that doesn't smell like sun screen is a struggle for designers in South America's largest country. Runway shows in Rio and Sao Paolo aren't lightweight by any means, but if volume of press is any indication, the establishment considers them just a few pounds shy of the heavyweight division, where their European and American counterparts still get twice the coverage. But, with the success of homegrown stars like Alexandre Herchcovitch, Brazil's designers are receiving more attention. When we went searching for fresh new brands and a refreshing point of view for spring and summer, we went Brazilian.

Maria Bonita Extra, by Andrea Marques, has some of the most interesting, offbeat takes on this season's Print Parade trend, like a tasty tribal Comie Print Dress with a puffy cloud filling. We love the spray painted stencil Black and White Print Dress, a gallery statement that's a nice change of pace from all the flower powered prints.

Coven, by Liliane Rebehy Queiroz, takes a different approach, with a strong retro flavored palette that channels Miami in the '80s. We're definitely going with this Striped Tunic Top the next time we're prowling Collins Avenue. Meet us at the Delano pool!

Flip flops are an essential this season. There isn't much you can do variety wise besides color, and that's what Havaianas gives us lots of. We went with the Slim Season Sandals in Light Green.

There's more coming from Brazil in the next few weeks. Look for Elisa Etheniense and eco-friendly Melissa Shoes very soon!

We live in a big city. No one really wears shorts here, even on hot days. Shorts and sandals are more of a college town thing, and better suited for suburban mall shopping. Unless you just got done playing basketball, wearing shorts around is second to unfolding a map while scratching your head, pretty much a dead give away you're a tourist or bridge and tunnel.

Actually, we think there's a simple reason shorts are spurned here. Pasty legs are better hidden, and us city folk just don't get enough sun! We need to fit more beach into the week, and promise to never turn down a pool party invite. If you end up sipping on the sand or poolside, just remember, no long pants because your legs need to breathe! Honor the Speedo-free zone (anywhere outside, in public) and pick some shorts that are laid-back and loungy with a Hotel California vibe from brands like Modern Amusement, Obey, and Loomstate.

Did you read your latest Lucky? We have two of the featured items in, and one on the way. Socially responsible designer Rogan Gregory gets a jump start on April, which happens to be Earth Month and the start of the Japanese Cherry Blossom Festival, with this Edun Requiem Dress in Black with Japonica print. The drapey racerback Graham and Spencer Techno Knit Strappy Top is also in. We don't have the Grace Sun Silk Camisole yet, but it should be here soon!

We're making an effort this season to feature denim and denim-related topics, and we had hoped to do a From the Designer feature on Jerome Dahan. Jerome started his legendary denim career as head designer at Lucky Brands. He then started Seven for All Mankind, and later founded Citizens of Humanity. Unfortunately, Jerome's schedule didn't free up, but we did get our hands on some insider pics from his Oscar night party at "The 77," a.k.a. Prince's mansion.

When the king of denim meets the prince of pop, a wild bash inevitably ensues. Everyone from Javier Bardem to Marion Cotillard was there, but the highlight was Prince playing a set with Stevie Wonder. Now we really wish we were there! Here's a collage of some of the tamer pics our Citizens of Humanity rep shared. Prince has a pole in the basement, surprise?

Jerome is still on our interview wishlist, and we'll feature as many denim designers as we can in the coming weeks. Kasil founder David Lim has already agreed to an interview, and will share his thoughts with you in a blog we'll post in From the Designer very soon!

Huh? This comes as quite a surprise. Paulo Melim Andersson's first collection for Chloe and See by Chloe was just last fall, which puts his abbreviated active tenure at less than a year. We still remember celebrating the news of his appointment like it was yesterday! As fans of Andersson since Marni, we're guessing the influential loyalists just didn't have much tolerance for change. Chloe brings in Hannah MacGibbon to succeed Andersson. MacGibbon worked under Phoebe Philo and will likely bring the aesthetic back in line with Philo's interpretation of femininity. This is a shock, but we're anxious to see what happens next to both Andersson and Chloe.

Last call! Our big sale doesn't have an expiration date, but we're definitely starting to sell out of sizes. If you're strategy is to wait for that one final markdown, don't wait any longer. This is it. Now is the time to jump on Velvet Lucian Cardigan (comes in 6 colors!) and those Acne Jeans Jeanine Strappy Heels! Here are the rest of the must pounce items this week in women's and men's:

There's a lot more where that came from. We can't believe some of the stuff on the sale racks! Take advantage and snatch it all up at a discount before someone else beats you to it. Even better, shop with Tobi Stylist, and we'll rummage through the clearance bins together to find all the final sale gems!

Name:
Alyasha Owerka-Moore

What I do:
Designer and Creative Director for Fiberops

What I am:
DJ

What does "streetwear" mean to you?

Clothing you wear in the street? "Streetwear" originally meant cottage industry, sociopolitically driven, intellectually stimulating design.

In the early '90s, there were many small independent companies that spoke to many different subcultures. Mod Brands, hip-hop brands, punk brands, surf and skate brands, raver brands, etc. Some spoke to many subcultures simultaniously. Some of the designers or heads of the companies decided to start their own trade shows and the "streetwear" industry grew.

It used to be about genuine lifestyle(s) now it's about all the "urban" brands who cannot figure out how to survive, trying to mimic the DIY aspect of "streetwear" brands or ultimately buying them up, or creating absurd categories such as "Skurban." There is NO particular style for skateboarders. Especially since they have always existed in cities or urban environments and listen to many different styles of music. The whole term Skurban is offensive to me. For the 7th Avenue industry person, it bluntly means "Black Skater." Guess what, there have always been black skaters!

Honestly, I have never been a fan of the term "streetwear" regardless of my involvement in that genre of the apparel industry.

What's your favorite brand?

Hysteric Glamour is one of the brands that immediately comes to mind. However, I'm not sure that I could honestly say I have one particular favorite brand, I do have favorite designers.

I'm a huge fan of Issey Miyake, Paul Smith, Tabo Kagaya, Rei Kawakubo, Erick Brunetti, Teru and Takashi from Anti-Good.

What's one piece from your wardrobe you'll keep forever?

An Issey Miyake outerwear (Gore-Tex/taped seams) jacket I got in Tokyo in '96.

A few weeks ago Jennifer, our senior buyer, attended an invite only dinner and party hosted by Alife, Creative Recreation, Keep, Hellz Bellz and many more at the The Strip House in Las Vegas. "The Bespoke Party" crowd consisted of "100 tastemakers" including 80 retailers and 20 press members. The real party didn't start until they hit Prive at Planet Hollywood after dinner. Anyone that knows Vegas knows it's true that what happens at Prive stays there because you're five Patron shots beyond remembering anything.

Actually, our Jennifer was very good, working the crowd and chatting up the biggest "tastemakers" including Arnaud Delecolle, founder of Alife. Apparently, Arnaud wasn't exactly pleased with the model we used to shoot the first shipment of Alife. "What the hell were you guys thinking!?!" was his way of telling us the model was all wrong for the brand. Hey, can't argue with the founder, we'll keep looking.

Here are some of the pictures Jennifer brought back from the party. Jennifer is the one in the green Mason dress from Spring '07.

On occasion, we convince (beg and schmooze) a designer into doing a Tobi Exclusive. When we asked Rachel Bravman, founder and designer of Rachel Leigh, to design exclusive jewelry for us, she went above and beyond, delivering 5 irresistibly charming pieces that we're proud to be the only ones to carry!

We've always been suckers for that editorial juxtaposition of city chic and country charm, and with eco-friendly organic hemp cords, San Francisco was definitely the city Rachel had in mind. Each is a personal statement you can make every day. Thanks Rachel, we love 'em all!

For more on Rachel Leigh, check out her interview and blog in From the Designer!